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Book Review |
James E. Wilson. Mitchell Beazley, London, 1998. £30.00 hardback; 336pp. ISBN 1-84-000033-3.
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This new book by American geologist J. E. Wilson, describing the influence of soils and subsoils on the individual tastes and characters of wines in France, should appeal to most geologists, both amateur and professional. It will also attract all with a serious or passing interest in wine and those who wish to plan their French holidays around geotouring or wine tasting, or both.
The book is well illustrated with maps, geological sections and colour photographs and describes the geological characteristics of all the major wine growing areas of France. Many interesting facts emerge, such as the problems caused by trying to classify the Chablis area on the basis of geology (the best Chablis comes from Chardonnay vines grown on the chalky marls of the Kimmeridgian). Unfortunately, geological experts cannot agree on where to draw the stratigraphical boundary, the limits of the Kimmeridgian remain in dispute, and the problem of delimiting Chablis remains unresolved with consequent commercial feuding.
The American style, perceptions and pronunciations may irritate some, but this apart it is an enjoyable and informative book containing many historical and cultural tales to balance the geological and vinous facts.
It is a book that explains simply the relationships between rocks, soil, slope, climate and appropriate grape varieties in French vineyards. It may even convince new-world wine lovers that there is something in the concept of ‘terroir’ and that wine making is more than climate, grapes, skills and equipment.
Whatever your view, this is a book to take with you
